Collagen
Written by Dr. Naeemah Ruffin
Collagen is an important protein in the skin. It comprises approximately 70% of the dermis (deep layer of the skin) and is responsible for the skin’s structural support, giving skin its strength and resilience to maintain a youthful looking appearance. However, collagen in the skin declines with age due to a decrease in collagen production and an increase in collagen breakdown. This results in our skin appearing thin, wrinkled, sagging, and fragile.
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After about the age of 20 we produce approximately 1% less collagen in the skin each year and this decline decreases faster in post-menopausal women due to a decline in estrogen.
The specialized cells in our skin that produce collagen are called fibroblasts. Over time fibroblasts diminish their production of collagen and die prematurely due to factors present in our body’s internal and external environments.
In order to naturally prevent, slow down and potentially reverse the signs of premature facial aging it is important to understand what factors cause these changes to occur. Understanding this enables you to identify the areas where you can positively influence your aging process by providing what your cells need to thrive. Below are three important extrinsic factors within your control that cause a decline in collagen and actions you can take to keep your skin looking and feeling healthy, vibrant, and youthful.
Collagen Destroying Habits:
High Sugar Diet
A diet high in sugar causes the destruction of collagen. This destruction is caused by Advanced Glycosylation End products (AGEs). AGEs are molecules that are formed during a chemical process in our body that cause excess sugar molecules to attach themselves to proteins which then causes the destruction of these proteins. Because our skin contains about 70% of collagen the excess sugar molecules join themselves to collagen resulting in its destruction. Additionally, AGEs cause damage to the fibroblasts decreasing their production of collagen and causing premature cell death.
Unprotected Sun Exposure
Excessive sun exposure makes up 80% of premature skin aging. Ultra-violet radiation (UVR) causes damage to collagen by creating free radical molecules that cause oxidative damage and lead to collagen breakdown.
Cigarette smoking
Second only to UVR, smoking tobacco is one of the leading causes of premature skin aging. Smoking creates oxidative molecules that trigger a cascade of harmful and destructive reactions leading to the degradation of collagen.
Collagen Promoting Actions:
Eating a collagen-promoting diet that is rich in organic plant-based foods, minimally processed, and that is low in sugar is a good step towards reducing the amount of sugar circulating in your body. Additionally, checking the food package labels for hidden sugars is an important step to help eliminate foods that contain added sugar you otherwise wouldn’t suspect.
Adding nutrients and vitamins that contain powerful antioxidants can reduce the oxidative effects of AGEs in the skin. These powerful antioxidants can come in the form of vitamins C, E, B3 (niacinamide), and Alpha Lipoic Acid.
Supplementing your diet with hydrolyzed collagen peptides has been shown to be effective in improving skin elasticity, hydration, and density. Studies have shown that this improvement can be seen within a few months.
Adding foods that are rich in phytoestrogens can make a difference. Phytoestrogens are a large family of plant-derived molecules that possess various degrees of estrogen-like activity which has been shown to increase collagen production and boost antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. Examples of some foods that are rich in phytoestrogens are organic flax seeds, soy, and grapes.
Sun Protection
You can protect your skin from the sun by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen shielding you from UVA, UVB and blue light. When going outside avoid or limit sun exposure between 10am – 4pm and wear sun protective clothing. Keep in mind that at times you may need to use sunscreen indoors because UVA can penetrate glass.
Smoking
To prevent premature aging of the skin it is imperative to stop smoking.
Skincare
There are natural anti-aging skin care ingredients that can addresses collagen decline. First, adding antioxidants to your skin care routine such as vitamins and polyphenols can reduce collagen degradation by reducing the concentration of free radicals in the skin.
Important vitamins to look for in your skincare products are Vitamin C, B3 (niacinamide), and E. These vitamins are important antioxidants because of their ability to penetrate the skin through their small molecular weight. Topical Vitamin C stimulates the collagen-producing activity of the dermis layer of the skin. Niacinamide is known to regulate cell metabolism and improve skin health. Studies show that you can achieve higher protection by combining vitamins C and E rather than using C or E alone.
Green tea is a polyphenol that works great in your skincare products when applied prior to sun exposure because it reduces DNA damage in the skin.
Co-Q 10 is a natural antioxidant that reduces the breakdown of fibroblasts due to ultraviolet-A (UVA) damage.
There are a variety of natural cell regulators added to skin care products such as retinols and peptides that promote collagen production. Vitamin A (retinol) and its derivatives inhibit the breakdown of collagen and promote collagen production. Plant-based phytochemicals such as Bakuchiol is also known to have retinoid-like anti-aging effects in the skin. Polypeptides, composed of amino acids, can also stimulate collagen production.
Lastly, you can boost the benefits of your low glycemic diet, sun protection, and an anti-aging skincare regimen by getting a good night’s rest and lowering your stress level. It has been shown that a chronic lack of sleep and an inability to manage daily stress can lead to a decrease in skin health and increased signs of skin aging. So, chill out and get your beauty rest. Your skin will love you for it and it will show.
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