Written by Dr. Naeemah Ruffin

Recent attention has been given to the available treatment options for the undesirable changes in the skin due to menopause. Menopause starts between the ages of 45 and 55 (the average age of menopause in the US is 51) and starts when a woman has one year of no menstrual periods due to insufficient estrogen production by the ovarian follicles. During menopause women begin to undergo erratic swings of estrogen.3

Estrogen is a hormone that contributes to the development and maintenance of important structural proteins in the skin such as collagen and elastin. The degree of skin aging during menopause is dependent upon previous exposure to estrogen, the amount of local estrogen produced by the skin and subcutaneous fat, and other causes of skin aging.  A decline in estrogen levels leads to skin that becomes dry, sagging, wrinkled, and thinning, and it decreases the free radical defenses against oxidative stress.3

Signs of skin aging is one of the most concerning issues women have during menopause and post-menopause because these changes are difficult to hide and may become a concerning cosmetic issue.1,3 During this time women can experience a decline in perceived facial attractiveness, negative psychological health, and an increased perception of aging.3  The signs of skin aging are most noticeable on areas affected by the sun and gravity such as the face, neck, and hands. The signs of skin aging are mostly associated with estrogen deficiency rather than chronological age and few menopausal women can escape these signs. The first signs of skin aging begin around age 30 when estrogen levels begin to decline, and these signs continue to progress.  

During menopause, the epidermis, the upper layer of the skin, experiences an increase in the number of pores and a decrease in hydration, which is needed to maintain skin health. In the dermis, the layer underneath the epidermis, estrogen helps maintain the skin’s extracellular matrix and hyaluronic acid helps increase water content.2 Collagen and elastin fibers are the most abundant proteins in the dermis. Collagen provides the skin’s structural framework while elastin fibers provide the elastic “bounce-back” properties which plays an essential role in maintaining good skin health.4 Estrogen deficiency decreases the synthesis of proteins such as collagen types I and III, elastin fibers and the tight association between all the layers of the skin and increases non-specific collagen-to-collagen crosslinks and enzymes that break down these proteins.3  Also, the skin layer below the dermis, the hypodermis, undergoes a decrease in the overall volume of facial fat.

To understand the extent of these changes above, gently pinch the skin on the back of your hand, pull it upward and then observe how quickly it returns to its original shape when the skin is released. In menopausal and post-menopausal women, the fold may take 3–4 times as long to reconstitute itself than in premenopausal women.3

Many women with menopausal skin changes seek cosmetic and medical treatment to inhibit skin aging in order to improve their self-confidence.3  Current studies have shown that the administration of estrogen treatment can significantly delay skin aging and prevent the loss of collagen types I and III and may be associated with an increase in elastin fibers.2 However, while systemic estrogen administration has positive effects on the skin, studies show the use of estrogen replacement remains a risk factor for breast and uterine cancer.2

Studies have also shown that local hormone treatment is effective in reversing estrogen-deficient aging skin, but these hormone treatments are not well established, and the uncertainty of their long-term effects is unclear.3 This unfavorable view of systemic and local hormones raises the need for more non-hormonal treatments to address estrogen-deficient skin. Fortunately, this has led to the discovery of new treatments that are safe, natural, and effective in improving skin-health through treatments that exclude hormonal estrogen.3

Nutraceutical and botanicals derived from plants that contain estrogenic and antioxidative properties have gained attention as an alternative therapy for slowing skin age-related changes in women during and after menopause.1 These compounds can be derived from plant parts such as petals, leaves, stems, roots, and fruit such as berries and grapes. These compounds have become key ingredients in topical and over-the-counter skin care product formulations and have been validated for their efficacy.

An example are phytoestrogens, a large family of plant‐derived molecules containing various degrees of estrogen‐like activity. They are mainly derived from natural plants and foods and have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. They can bind both alpha and beta estrogen receptors and act as both estrogen agonists and antagonists. Phytoestrogens increase collagen and reduce the degradation of collagen; increase the water content in the skin, protect the skin from oxidative stress, and inhibits the development of dark spots. The topical application of phytoestrogens can improve the health of the skin and effectively resist skin aging.2

Based on the number of recent publications in peer-reviewed journals, one of the most well-known phytoestrogens is resveratrol, which has been found to improve skin health by exerting estrogen-like effects without unacceptable adverse effects.3 Resveratrol is derived from the skin of grapes and is also found in blueberries, mulberries, raspberries, tomatoes, strawberries, peanuts, and Japanese knotweed. 3,4

Researchers have found that resveratrol exerts anti-aging effects that reduces wrinkles and accelerates skin regeneration and healing by increasing the production of collagen and elastin, inhibiting the breakdown of collagen, and lowering free radicals to reduce the effects of UV‐mediated photoaging of the skin.2,3 Researchers have also been able to create stable forms of resveratrol to ensure potency and efficacy in topical skin care formulations.

In addition to its anti-aging effects on the skin, resveratrol has been found to have a wide variety of anti-aging benefits in the body such as reducing triglycerides and cholesterol levels, regulating glucose metabolism, and being both cardioprotective and neuroprotective.3

Researchers have cited the benefits of combining resveratrol with other topical antioxidants such as bakuchiol, vitamin C, peptides, niacinamide, and alpha and beta hydroxy acids.3 Bellantz has incorporated resveratrol into its Plant Stem Cell Revitalizing Crème. This crème offers an intensive complex of antioxidants such as ferulic acid and phloretin, plant stem cells and peptides, and a triple age-defying complex of green coffee berry, Kombucha, and sweet basil, all which fortify and nourish the skin. Our Ferulic + Vitamin C Serum also contains resveratrol.

Because estrogen loss begins when a woman is in her 30s and 40s, resveratrol use can help prevent the visible signs of aging due to estrogen loss over time. It is never too late to start an anti-aging skincare regimen that includes an effective topical resveratrol product as well as adding resveratrol into your diet with whole foods and supplements. There are many plant-based food sources that contain antioxidants and that contain resveratrol-like properties.4

Adding phytoestrogens, such as resveratrol, to your regimen is a natural and effective approach to address the signs of aging skin.  However, it is important to keep in mind that facial aging is multi-faceted. Maintaining a holistic approach that includes eating a healthy diet, exercising your face and body, drinking plenty of water, getting adequate sleep, and minimizing negative lifestyle factors such as unprotected sun exposure, smoking, alcohol, and stress, will help you on your journey to age gracefully naturally.

Sources:

1.      Lephart ED, Naftolin F. Menopause and the Skin: Old Favorites and New Innovations in Cosmeceuticals for Estrogen-Deficient Skin. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2021 Feb;11(1):53-69. doi: 10.1007/s13555-020-00468-7. Epub 2020 Nov 26. PMID: 33242128; PMCID: PMC7859014.

2.      Liu T, Li N, Yan YQ, Liu Y, Xiong K, Liu Y, Xia QM, Zhang H, Liu ZD. Recent advances in the anti-aging effects of phytoestrogens on collagen, water content, and oxidative stress. Phytother Res. 2020 Mar;34(3):435-447. doi: 10.1002/ptr.6538. Epub 2019 Nov 20. PMID: 31747092; PMCID: PMC7078862.

3.      Boss GR, Seegmiller JE. Age-related physiological changes and their clinical significance. West J Med. 1981 Dec;135(6):434-40. PMID: 7336713; PMCID: PMC1273316.

4.      Tumsutti P, Maiprasert M, Sugkraroek P, Wanitphakdeedecha R, Bumrungpert A. Effects of a combination of botanical actives on skin health and antioxidant status in post-menopausal women: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 May;21(5):2064-2072. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14345. Epub 2021 Jul 21. PMID: 34260808; PMCID: PMC9292526.